Liquid Nitrogen in cooking
Imagine trying to break a raspberry that you froze in the
freezer: it would squish, thaw, and turn into a mass of pulp. But with liquid
nitrogen you can make little beads of frozen raspberry, or raspberry
powder.Because liquid nitrogen is so incredibly cold, it is used to freeze
foods, which it can do almost instantly.
But, with the exception of televised
competitions where time is a factor, the speed at which liquid nitrogen can
freeze foods is not its selling point. Instead, it's how liquid nitrogen freezes
foods that makes it such a dynamic "ingredient."
Since man’s discovery of fire, cooking has been mainly a
process of subjecting food to high temperatures that chemically alter its
color, taste and texture. But the invention of cryogenic technology has handed
chefs an exciting new tool—liquid nitrogen—for transforming food in fun and
surprising ways. In our culinary research laboratory, we use this ultra-cold
liquid to cryopoach oils, cryoshatter cheese, cryopowder herbs and cryograte
meat. It is great for making instant ice cream and perfectly cooked hamburgers.
Liquid nitrogen also makes hard freezing fast and
convenient. Spanish chef Quique Dacosta uses it to solidify Parmesan foam,
which he then dusts with powdered, flash-frozen mushrooms to make faux
truffles. The stuff also makes quick work of disassembling blackberries into
individual drupelets and shattering dollops of oil into tiny shards that thaw
in minutes.
Speed is crucial for freezing foods without damaging their
texture. In general, the faster the freezing process, the smaller the ice
crystals and the less they disrupt the cellular structure of the food. Since
the 1970s chefs have used liquid nitrogen to make supersmooth ice cream. More
recently, chefs have started using it to flash-freeze delicate foods such as
foie gras. Because liquid nitrogen is a relatively new addition to the kitchen,
many other applications of this versatile fluid still await discovery.
It is colder than -346 degrees Farenheit. The oil in a deep
fryer is about 346 degrees Fahrenheit. Think about that for a second. You
really don't want to touch this stuff; it can burn you as seriously as fryer
oil -- and so can any bowl or ladle you use while playing with it. So be
careful, wear protective gloves, and don't be in a position where it can fall
on you if the container of the nitrogen is in breaks from the cold. (Unlikely,
but still.)
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